Grooms Tailors: some may be familiar with having suits made, particularly if you are like my husband – an ex-rugby player where buying off the rack was never an option! For others, it may be a new experience.
So, how do you choose a good grooms tailor?
– Reputation, ask around.
– Arrive earlier than your appointed time and listen – a tailor knows and greets all his clients by name. They will have kept records of all previous fittings!
– A good tailor will not be afraid to advise you, particularly of an ill choice. He should point you in the right direction and discreetly make suggestions.
– A good grooms tailor will be familiar with wedding photographer.
– A good grooms tailor will ask you pertinent questions about your wedding; its location, timing, formality, colour, theme, etc
– Beware of a tailor who agrees with everything you say!
– Understand that different tailors favour different styles. Ask to see their portfolios so that you ensure you are choosing the style that suits you.
– Look at the way the tailor is dressed; if he looks anything less than having walked out of a glossy catalogue then beware of shoddy work.
– Look at how the establishment is presented, is it orderly or chaotic, are there displays of fabrics, etc.
– Beware of any establishment that name themselves after fashion houses such as Versace, Hugo Boss or Armani. You need to question their scruples/ethics. Prices may be vastly inflated for a very inferior product. This is a pet hate of “true” tailors.
The groom’s dress code is traditionally dependent upon the time of day. As a general rule of thumb:
Daytime: Morning suit, “Churchill”, consisting of gray striped trousers and gray waistcoat, black tail coat (cutaway style with tails falling just below the knee), plain white shirt, gray top hat and gloves, braces, black socks and black lace up shoes or brogues, tie or cravat according to taste. The “Ascott” is a gray tail coat to be worn in the mornings. The “Washington” is a rich navy tail coat, an alternative afternoon wear.
Frock coats are now an alternative to the morning coat (jacket). These are available in a variety of colours.
Evening: Classic black Tuxedo, white shirt with pointed collar, hand knotted black tie, black socks, dress shoes, braces, white handkerchief, cufflinks, shirt studs. Alternatively there is the white tuxedo.
Black dinner jacket: with white dress shirt, bowtie that may be coloured and match the cummerbund, black socks, black shoes, braces, handkerchief may also match the cummerbund, cufflinks, shirt studs. The “Excelsior” with a satin faced shawl collar is traditionally correct for all black tie functions.